Staggering, Section Lengths and Extra End Length for Planing and Cutoffs


  • Text of my full message to Rodmakers is below.  In regard to extra length on each end, what are you all using?  Tom's manual says 3" one each end and 2" more on the butt section for the hold down.  I was a little thrown off by seeing dimensions further out on the tip ends and seeminly also on the butt ends on planing reports. 

    Thanks,

    Rick

    [Posted to Rodmakers:

    I am working on a 6ft, 2pc, 2wt rod.  My strips are straightened, rough planed and heat treated and I am at the step of staggering and cutting to length in preparation for taper planing on a Morgan Hand Mill.  I'm using the 2x2x2 stagger method.  Finished sections will be 36".  I need to determine how much extra to leave on each end. I've reviewed the books I have (Gould, Cattanach, Howell, Maurer & Elser and Harms & Whittle) and see extra lengths as little as 1".  The MHM manual says 3" on each end and 2" more on the butt end for the hold down.  Distance from closest node to ferrules or tiptop as much as 5" away, but one 'avoid a node under a ferrule and 3" from a tiptop' (paraphased).

    I have the strips organized in bundles of six and laid out with (green) tape indicating finished section and extra lengths and (white) tape indicating locations of the node stagger groups.  I have a total of 58 strips and only "have to" make one rod, but I would like to get two rods from it all.  I have the staggered/bundled strips organized into groups of three bundles each, to groups for tips and one for butts, which ostensibly allows for six extras in each group.  There are four other spare strips that don't match well for one reason or another.  Within the tip groups, I have matched the node spacing as best I can but the spacing between the two tip groups differs.  I'm not concerned about matching spacing between bundles in the butt section group.

    In one group of three bundles for one of the tips, the closest node on the butt end is 3" from the end.  Same for one bundle in the butt section group.  I have been unable to find a way to avoid being so close, due to the need for 5" on that end for mounting on the MHM anvil.

    I'm going to try attaching a photo, but I've had things rejected for exceeding size limits.  I'll post the photo separately if necessary.

    My questions are:

    1) what lengths are others using beyond finished lenghts,
    2) what distance from the closest node to a ferrule and/or tiptop are you using, and
    3) am I going to be okay with the one tip section that has two nodes as close as 3".

    As a side note, I mentioned I only need to get one rod from all this, for my gunsmith, as trade for rebarreling one of my rifles. But, I WANT one for myself, which is why I really want to get two rods out of all this.

    I am very interested to hear your comments, etc.

    Rick]

     



  • I make almost only 4-piece rods, so have requirements somewhat different from those for rods with fewer pieces.  Despite that, here is what I do.

    I begin with node-prepped strips that are considerably longer than I need.  Depending on the location (in the taper) of my first station on the blank, I have 5-7 inches extra length on the butt end and the usual 3 inches on the tip end.  I mark on a long piece of paper taped to my workbench the locations of (from tip to butt) the tip cut, the section end, reserved spaces for tiptop/ferrules, the butt end of the section, and the butt cut.  For the butt section of the blank, I also mark the location of the cork check.  Within the area left between the reserved spaces, I spiral the nodes of my long strips and usually have about 1 1/2 inches between nodes.  No nodes are in the ferrule or tiptop areas.

    After cutting the strips to length, I apply the Garrison 6-cylinder spacing to the spiraled nodes.  For th area under the grip of the butt section, my spacing can be anything that allows spiral/Garrison spacing of the blank outside of the grip.

    When looking at my blanks, some people ask about my crazy-looking node spacing!

    Tim


  • Staggering section lengths and managing extra end lengths for planing and cutoffs is incredibly insightful for anyone involved in woodworking. For students studying this craft, understanding these nuances is essential but can be overwhelming. That’s where expert assignment help can come in handy, providing tailored support to grasp these complex concepts while managing their coursework. With professional guidance, students can improve their skills and apply what they've learned more effectively.


Please login to reply this topic!